Mild At Heart (Lanzarote)

Lanzarote may well be Spanish sovereign territory. But this little speck of Spain lies just 70 miles off the coast of Africa - on the same southerly latitude as Florida and parts of Mexico. A privileged position that bestows a clement year round climate – where temperatures rarely fall below 20c even in the depths of winter. Creating a magnet for sun starved Northern Europeans and a year round demand for apartments and holiday villas in Lanzarote.

According to a recent American study of 600 travel destinations this little island enjoys the best climate in the world. And over one million British and Irish visitors annually would seem to agree. Drawn not only by Lanzarote´s Spring like climate but also the fact that the island boasts over 90 golden sand beaches and some of the most stunning scenery on the planet.

Indeed, much of Lanzarote resembles another world altogether. As back in the 1730´s the island was subjected to the world’s longest ever volcanic eruption. Lasting six years – and covering around one quarter of its surface in a sea of lava.

Today, somewhat ironically, the epicenter of these eruptions is now Lanzarote´s number one tourist attraction. As the Timanfaya Volcano Park records close on a million visitors a year. Drawn by the other worldly terrain of twisted lava and spent cones that is often likened to the surface of the moon.

Yet despite Laznarote´s enormous popularity with tourists the island still remains relatively unspoiled. Thanks to the influence of an island born artist and architect called Cesar Manrique, who illuminated an alternative path for development whilst other Spanish sunspots found themselves buried beneath a sea of concrete.

Manrique was studying art in New York in the 1960´s just as package tourism started to really take off in Franco´s Spain. And fearing for his beloved birthplace he returned to fight for a controlled form of evolution that would not subsume Lanzarote´s natural beauty.

Teaming up with an old family friend called Pepin Ramires – an influential islander who was then leader of the local council - Manrique successfully campaigned against high rise buildings, advertising hoardings and any influence that would otherwise spoil Lanzarote´s aesthetic beauty.

But Manrique was much more than just a proto-conservationist alone.
As whilst other destinations built water parks and golf course he instead sought to create a series of unique cultural attractions that fused art with nature.

When Hollywood legend Rita Hayworth first set eyes on Manrique’s incredible conversion of a collapsed volcanic tube at the Jameos del Agua (in the north of the island) into an incredible underground auditorium and nightclub she declared it the eighth wonder of the world.

And many other A-listers flocked to Lanzarote as a result – attracted to this new, exotic destination and often beating a path to Manrique´s front door in the village of Tahiche. Where he created the most incredible underground home out of five volcanic bubbles.

Indeed, the actor Omar Sharif was so blown away that he immediately commissioned his very own island retreat. Manrique built a stunning house for him into the side of a partially collapsed volcano. The actor then promptly lost it in a game of bridge. Today LagOmar (Omar’s Lake) in Nazaret is home to one of the islands most fashionable restaurants.

The importance of this restrained development becomes apparent when touring the island. As the three main tourist resorts are still well contained and don’t impinge upon the islands treasure trove of natural wonders.

As a result, Lanzarote was the first island in the world to be declared a UNESCO protected biosphere back in 1994. Although sadly Manrique didn’t leave to see this official recognition of his work, as he was killed two years prior in a car accident close to his home.

Nick Ball is editor of the in-depth Lanzarote tourist guide, Lanzarote Guidebook.