Ripoll

Population: 10,832

What has always struck me about Ripoll is, despite its historical importance, its humble matter of fact atmosphere. It really comes across as nothing special, but this impression is totally false, and it’s the town that can stake the strongest claim to being the ‘Cradle of Catalonia’.

Ripoll’s location where the rivers Ter and Freser meet on their way out of the Pyrenees means that it has a long history. During the Moorish invasion in the 8th century, most of the Catalan population had holed up in the mountains so the fertile spot that the town occupies was one of the first areas to be repopulated as the Saracens were driven south. In 888, Guifre el Pelós, the first hereditary Count of Barcelona, founded the Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll, which under Abbot Oliba was to become one of the foremost centres of learning in Europe.

The monastery itself is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in existence, and is breathtaking in its simplicity. However, the real jewel in Ripoll’s crown is the 12th century alabaster portal to the monastery, which was exposed to the elements for 800 years and fortunately is now protected by glass. The portal tells so many stories, both biblical and mythological, but can be seen as an allegorical description of the birth of the Catalan nation. Apart from going and just marvelling at this ancient piece of sculpture, it’s well-worth picking up a free leaflet in order to get an idea of what it all might mean.

Ripoll’s history has not been without its ups and downs. It has suffered from earthquakes and was particularly affected by the Carlist Wars, for example, but its fortunate location has always given it an air of modest prosperity. Consequently, it was well-positioned to take advantage of the Industrial Revolution, and this influx of wealth in the 19th century can be seen in the numerous Modernist buildings dotted around the town. One of the most charming of these is the tiny church of Sant Miquel de la Roqueta, built in 1912 by Gaudí collaborator Joan Rubió i Bellver, which looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel.

When you are in Ripoll, it’s worth putting on the hiking boots and walking in the nearby mountains, and you should also take in nearby Sant Joan de les Abadesses, home to another Romanesque church and an extraordinarily well-preserved medieval centre.

Given Ripoll’s importance in the Catalan psyche, it’s not surprising that the town is host to some important festes. The Festa Major de Sant Eudald is held in mid-May and dates back to 1004, and in the following week there’s the Festa Nacional de la Llana i Casament a Pagès, a festival that mixes sheep-shearing with traditional Catalan peasant weddings – it just can’t get more authentic than this.

Ajuntament de Ripoll, Plaça de l'Abat Oliba, s/n Tel. 972 71 41 42