Sitges
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Population: 23.590
Internationally, Sitges is probable best-known as being the gay capital of Spain and host to the International Cinema Festival of Catalonia, the theme of which is fantasy and science fiction – and Sitges given its history and liberalism is not at all a bad place to hold it.
To Catalans, it is more famous for its exuberant Carnaval in early spring; this takes place on the infamous Carrer del Pecat – the Street of Sin - and is not to be missed. It’s an out and out gay/transvestite event to which grandparents take their grandchildren, and where local farmers can be seen talking football (I presume) to drag queens.
But Sitges is not only well-endowed sexually, it is also a delightful place to visit. The Passeig Marítim extends for 3 km along the seafront and overlooks some of the nicest beaches within easy reach of Barcelona. At the end of the Passeig, there are a set of steps that take you up to the Old Town and the majestic 12th century church of Sant Bartolomeu i Santa Tecla, the museum and the Palau Maricel.
For me, though, the real delight of Sitges comes as you walk down the hill towards the Sant Sebastià beach with its classy seafront bars and restaurants. This part of town is also home to the Cau Ferrat, now a museum, which once belonged to the Modernist painter Santiago Rusinyol who celebrated his famous Modernist parties there. His purchase of two El Greco paintings, which are still housed in the museum, was apparently the cause of much debauchery a century ago.
Apart from Carnaval, a good time to visit is for the Festa Major of Sant Bartomeu, which is on 23rd August at the height of the summer season. Even more lovely, though, is Corpus Christi, when the streets are decorated by carpet-like flower mosaics, which have to be tiptoed across in order to get from one side of the street to the other.
Sitges is a lovely place – it’s quiet and cultural with lovely beaches and great places to eat. If you go with the kids, though, be sure you don’t inadvertently set your packed lunch down on the gay nudist section of the beach!
Ajuntament de Sitges Pl. Ajuntament, sn. Tel. 938117600
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