Tàrrega

Population: 16,100

Tàrrega is capital of the fertile Urgell comarca in the province of Lleida, and despite its size, its one of those places that that you seem continually driven towards if you’re touring in southern Catalonia. Situated on the banks of the River Ondara between the Segarra and Urgell plains, it’s also the meeting point for an extraordinary number of important roads; it’s just off the A-2 motorway linking Barcelona, Lleida and Madrid, the C-14 from Tarragona and Montblanc up to Andorra passes close by and the Eix Transversal will take you all the way to Girona. Given that it appears you have no choice, it’s probably worth stopping to have a look around.

Although very pleasant, Tàrrega doesn’t figure very highly in the Catalan history books. It became populated after the Catalans won back Catalunya Nova from the Moors in the 12th century, but one of the highlights of its early career seems to have been 1458, when the town was given the right to hold a market on Mondays, which is still a cause for civic pride to this day and a very good to boot. The rest of its history is made up of plagues, minor skirmishes and the arrival of the railway. Apparently the bell tower of the church collapsed in 1672 destroying some local buildings, and the town’s current hope for the future is the construction of the Segarra-Garrigues canal.

However, don’t be put off by what little has gone on here because that’s just part of its lazy charm. It’s a lovely little place with a laid back atmosphere for 11 months of the year, and should you visit in September, Tàrrega explodes into life. Every year it hosts the Fira de Teatre al Carrer, the Festival of Street Theatre, which is absolutely fantastic. There are shows in the street, in bars, in community centres and sometimes even in private houses. More than 100 theatre groups come from all over Europe, but the great thing is that local Catalan amateurs come and put on shows just for the hell of it; buskers, mime artists, clowns, break dancers. Anyone with a fun idea can set up in Tàrrega and do their show for free. You can get information about the official programme at www.firatarrega.com, but I suggest you just turn up with a guitar or a set of juggling clubs.

Ajuntament de Tàrrega, Plaça Major, 1 Tel. 973311608