Vic

Population: 40,000

Vic, it has to be said, is amongst my favourite places in Catalonia. It manages to mix oodles of history with upbeat modernity, and a cosmopolitan atmosphere with a strong sense of tradition. It’s also one of a number of towns that stakes a strong claim to being the cradle of Catalonia.

Vic began life as Ausa, the capital of an Iberian tribe called the Ausetans, who gave their name to the comarca of which Vic is now capital, Osona. Later colonised by the Romans, Vic’s location on the Plain of Vic, the heart of central Catalonia’s fertile flatlands, has always been essential to its prosperity, and its agricultural roots are still to be savoured in its wonderful array of local sausages, which can be bought direct from the pig farmers at the Tuesday and Saturday markets in the main square.
The markets in the old Medieval town centre seem to sum up all that is Vic. The streets are full of young and old, the market traders sell everything from local honey to pirate CDs. All this occurs in atmosphere that is strongly Catalan but also includes a healthy racial mix, because Vic seems extremely confident of both its past and its future.

The town was once seat of one of the most powerful bishoprics in Catalonia, and a sign of its historical importance is its amazing Museu Episcopal, which houses a collection of Romanesque art only equalled by the MNAC in Barcelona. The bishopric was always an important seat of learning and research, and this tradition is continued by the University of Vic, the only Catalan university located in a town of such diminutive size.

Not surprisingly, with so many young people around, Vic is also well-known for its fairs and festes. The real time to visit is in mid-September, when the Mercat de la Música Viva de Vic takes place. The MMVV is the trade fair for the Catalan music industry, but while a lot of business obviously goes on, the town is turned into one massive concert hall. There’s always a strong Catalan bias but the MMVV is becoming increasingly international, with many Spanish and British acts making a play for the very healthy Catalan music market. If you go, you certainly won’t be disappointed by this 24/7 feast of music, fun and festa.

Ajuntament de Vic, C. Ciutat, 1 Tel. 93 886 21 00